![]() The booths are a little banged up, Tiffany lamps hang over the tables, and there’s carpet. The restaurant has been in the current location for a decade but somehow looks like it hasn’t been touched since 1992. Recently, I was the only person in the dining room at 11:30 a.m. When it closed, Papa’s decided to try it and the flavor stuck.) I make the trip anytime I can convince someone to come with me and even times when I can’t. (The story goes that another pizza spot nearby, Schuster’s, was owned by a German family that introduced the idea to the area. That’s a Papa’s thing, where spicy brown mustard is spread on before anything else, then the other toppings are added. Fellow Trenton-area pizza legend De Lorenzo’s also makes tomato pies, but a mustard version isn’t on the menu. ![]() It leaves a nice little puddle of hot grease in its wake, and the outer edge always sports a few shades of brown, proof that somebody in the kitchen is turning the pie every few seconds to make sure it’s cooked evenly. But it’s the pizza itself that makes Papa’s worth the journey along I-95, specifically the pizza most commonly referred to as “mustard pie.” It’s “thin crust,” but the genre has more in common with Manhattan’s slice joints. Railroad Ave., Robbinsville Township, New Jersey ), near Trenton, which has been open since 1912 and has a valid claim to the title of longest-running pizzeria in America, since Lombardi’s was closed for a decade starting in 1977. The answer is Papa’s Tomato Pies (19 Main St., nr. ![]() Persuading friends who live in New York to drive an hour or so into Jersey for pizza is tough. C.Cīrave the New Jersey Turnpike for a mustard pie … ), a cubbyhole-size takeout spot that calls itself the “home of the Irish Chinese in USA.” Its spice bags are flecked with chile, fragrant with cumin, and loaded with crisp chicken strips and fried peppers. After a few of those, walk over to The Kitchen (4330 Katonah Ave., at E. ), where the bartenders know to take their time with the Guinness pour. They’re better when you’re buzzed, so start with some drinks at Keane’s (4342 Katonah Ave., nr. The IRA bar might be gone, but the spice bags have arrived. The sequestered Bronx neighborhood has been an Irish-American stronghold for as long as anyone remembers. Now the question becomes, Where to find one in New York? Up in Woodlawn. Reportedly invented at a Chinese takeout in Dublin, it’s a bag of chile-seasoned fries with chicken, onion, bell pepper, and spices. Several years ago, however, a delicacy called a spice bag broke out from the Emerald Isle. Innovations in Irish cuisine rarely capture the wider world’s attention. Branzino may seem basic, but it’s also the perfect canvas for the house seasoning. 71), which seats about 20 people, is better for solo diners or parties of two. It’s halal, so there’s no BYOB get the mint lemonade instead and an order of fresh baba ghannouj while you wait for your fish. ), but the atmosphere is less chaotic and options still include wild red mullet, sardines, and three sizes of shrimp. The selection is less expansive at Hamido Seafood (33-08 Ditmars Blvd. Bring one friend to scout for seats, another to handle BYOB responsibilities, and a third for picking out the sea bass and fluke along with a plate of oysters to start. But the first decision to make is where to go: At Astoria Seafood (37-10 33rd St. Here are a dozen of the best spots to hunker down, get dizzy from choices, and eat fantastic food.There is no more satisfying way to feast on the spoils of the sea than to visit Astoria’s collection of fresh-fish counters, where customers can pluck out their preferred salmon or sardines from the daily specials displayed on ice, then have their choice broiled, fried, grilled, or steamed. Today, New York City and its boroughs boast dozens of food halls and food courts, from the shiny new Hudson Yards development to subway hubs to Flushing's Chinatown shopping centers. When and if this opens, it will be joining a wonderfully crowded scene of urban food halls (and food courts, although some may argue the former is simply a more local vendor-centric, evolved incarnation of the latter) in a city that-thanks to the success of the trailblazing, perpetually packed Chelsea Market, which celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2022 and sees approximately 6 million tourists and locals annually-helped spawn a still proliferating nationwide trend. In early November 2021, it was announced that Anthony Bourdain's endeavor to bring an authentic Singaporean-style hawker food hall to NYC, a four-year effort that fell apart in late 2017, had been rebooted with the city-state's foodie icon and Makansutra founder KF Seetoh and may finally come to fruition sometime in 2022.
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